All you need to know about HEMA

All you need to know about HEMA

There has been a lot of talk circling around the nail industry with respect to the controversial topic of HEMA, here we have covered some of the main points and questions you (and your clients in fact) may be asking. From what actually is HEMA to allergic reactions, don’t sweat it we’ve got your back.

What is HEMA?
HEMA (hydroxyethyl methacrylate) is a chemical used for adhesion that’s found in most nail enhancement products, it's also used in treatments by dentists and orthopaedic surgeons. For years HEMA has been used safely by professionals in these industries but as products such as UV/LED Gel Polishes have become more accessible directly to consumers and poorly formulated gel polishes have flooded the market, the UK nail industry has seen a spike in allergic reactions which has led the demand for HEMA-Free products. 

What causes a reaction to HEMA?
While HEMA-Free products are an answer for those who have suffered an allergic reaction it's important to remember that this is a modern issue and is not down to HEMA itself but rather the improper use of products that contain HEMA or products that contain high levels of HEMA that are considered unsafe. Once a person develops an allergy, they unfortunately have it for life and it can affect more than just the nail treatments they can have.

The rise in allergies has coincided with the influx of poorly formulated gel polishes that contain high levels of HEMA, some of which have seeped into the professional market, to unsafe practice by inexperienced users and consumers aiming to DIY their gel nails at home without understanding the product, chemicals or risks of unsafe application and curing.

Professional Nail Technicians who have invested in good quality training will know that there are a host of ingredients that have the potential to cause allergies when used incorrectly.

Why have HEMA allergies become so wide spread?

Common causes of a HEMA allergic reaction are:

• Poorly formulated gel polishes with high levels of HEMA.
• Under cured product due to use of incorrect lamp.
• Product coming into contact with skin leading to over exposure.

Gel Polishes with high levels of HEMA
The recommended upper limit for HEMA content within Gel Polish is 35%. A higher HEMA content can keep product costs low so if a price seems too good to be true make sure to research the product thoroughly. Don’t be tempted by clever marketing, client pressure or brand trends. Some brands we see strategically target the end user, whether it’s through the range of colours available or influencer endorsement they make their product the ‘must have’. 

Under cured product / Over exposure
When it comes to UV/LED products under cured product can lead to over-exposure which is a cause of allergic reactions. Reputable brands will supply you a complete system, which has been put through thorough testing to ensure quality and safety and they will provide full details on cure times. If a brand sells a product without this, ask what lamp their product is tested with and which they recommend. Be aware that some insurance companies will only cover you if you have used a complete system to manufacturers recommendations.

What can be done to reduce the risk of developing a HEMA allergy?

Research! Your business and reputation rely on the products you invest in.

Before investing in a brand speak to them about their products, where are their products manufactured and tested. How does a brand respond when you ask questions, are they supportive can they back up the information they are giving you with ingredients lists and safety data sheets for their product? Are the brand reputable and is the information they’ve provided reliable.

No one ever wants to be in a position where a product causes an issue but if that does happen you want to be sure you have the support of the brand in helping resolve it.

Educate your clients!
While social media has given us a great way to connect and support each other it also unfortunately opens the door to untrained individuals wanting to do their nails at home and this is where problems can start. In many cases the client will always return to the salon after trying DIY nails but they may already have started to develop sensitivity. Through social media share your knowledge and reinforce that as professional nail technician you’re not ‘just doing nails’ you’re ensuring your clients nails receive a safe service and that their nails are kept healthy.

Just to recap HEMA IS a safe ingredient and as we have already explained above It has been used safely for many years in many different industries! As long as a product doesn’t contain any more than the recommended upper limit it can be used safely. Please be aware of poorly formulated products that contain high levels of HEMA which are considered unsafe. Remember if a price seems to good to be true RESEARCH IT!.

We have put together a list of HEMA FREE products especially for your sensitive clients.

1. Universal Acrylic Nail Liquid

The NSI Universal HEMA Free Liquid is a clear liquid recommended as an alternative cross-linking monomer for clients who may experience sensitivity to nail liquid. Non-yellowing and completely colour stable keeping nail enhancements looking fresh and new.

1. Superbond Nail Primer

Superbond Primer is made with 100% methacrylic for use with acrylic. Chemically prepares the nail plate for the ultimate bond.

1. Balance Elite HEMA Free Gels

The Balance Elite LED/UV Gel System combines light cured technology and beautiful chemistry to create a new hard gel system that is user-friendly and perfect for a variety of nail services including natural nail overlays, tip and overlays, sculpting on a form and indestructible pedicures.

Shop our HEMA Free products online at https://www.nsinails.co.uk/nsihemafreeproducts.html

If you have any addition questions that we have not covered in this blog please reach out to us, were here to help and that is exactly what we want to do! We have a live chat facility on our website or you can call our friendly team on our freephone number 0800 881 8469.

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