Is it just us that finds a chalky smooth freshly filed nail ready for topcoat so satisfying? Don't even get us started on the actual application of the topcoat, it just completely changes the whole appearance of the nail and we're here for it!
Whether you're finishing with a high gloss glass look topcoat or a classy matte finish we've got you covered.
We have answered your questions about our NSI topcoats and what the differences are.
Having our nails done makes us feel amazing and gives us that extra boost of confidence we didn’t know we needed. What isn’t so great however is removing them, whether your client is wanting a break or moving over to a different system it is always advised that enhancements are removed correctly and safely.
We believe in the importance of catering for all types of clients even those with sensitivities & allergies. The last thing we want is for you guys to feel the dread inside when a client mentions they suffer with these problems, and you feel like you must unfortunately turn the client away.
Be confident, knowledgeable and introduce them to the NSI Balance Elite HEMA FREE gel system!
NSI is produced and manufactured in Philadelphia, USA. Since the 1950s, NSI has been a family owned business, Fred Slack and his son Rick Slack operated & manufactured high quality monomers, polymers, and other enhancement products for the professional nail industry.
While there seems to be a little uncertainty within the nail industry at the moment regarding ingredients in products and too much HEMA in others causing nail separation and allergic reactions, we just want to put our customers minds at ease.
We're delighted to bring you a brand new way of shopping and connecting with NSI UK! Our new moblie app doesn't just bring you the quickest way to shop with NSI, you will find product resources, advice and inspiration on the full range of NSI nail products PLUS the most popular brands in Hair and Beauty!
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NSI Nails has been at the forefront of nail product innovation since the 1950’s. All NSI nail enhancement products are carefully researched, developed and manufactured by our own chemists in our own facility in the USA to ensure they meet the highest quality and safety standards. Supplying the UK nail industry since 1992, NSI UK have built a reputation as a brand nail technicians can trust for products, education and support.
A nail tech’s guide to common gel systems, terms & technology.
Did you know that traditional acrylic nail systems and gel nail systems come from the same family tree? Yes, that’s right! Both systems stem from Acrylate. Both systems contain monomers and both systems require energy to promote a chemical reaction. Although the chemistry is different, there are similarities to these enhancement products.
Acrylics are Chemicals and Gels are Not
This myth probably stemmed from the fact that acrylic liquid releases an odor and gels do not. Monomer’s odor is directly related to the evaporation rate of a particular ingredient (vapor caused by evaporation releases the odor). Gels do not have an evaporation rate, so there is no odor. Both Acrylic and Gels are Chemicals.
Gel products do not contain acrylic chemicals
Nothing can be further from the truth. Acrylate, is the main chemical in both products and is part of the word that forms acrylic. They are in FACT both acrylic. Acrylic powders are referred to as Meth-Acrylate and gels are referred to as Urethane Acrylate.
When gels were first introduced into the nail industry in the mid 80’s, the goal was to create a strong and durable enhancement parallel to acrylic, with a glossy, hard finish. The urethane acrylate oligomer base, chosen to create these gels, had a tight molecular structure, resulting in a lower molecular weight (meaning they feel lighter). This made them highly resistant to solvents (meaning that they don’t soak off).
Oligomers are short preformed chains of monomer that make up the chemistry of gels. The monomers in gel are already linked to form these chains. They are pre mixed for you so there is no mix ratio that you need to worry about. This also makes it quicker to cure with a UV or LED lamp in comparison to traditional acrylics needing up to 48 hours to fully harden.
UV and LED lights are the energy source needed for Photo Initiators (PI) to generate the free radicals for the curing process. In general, the more PI’s there are in a formula, the faster the cure. It is often, during this time of curing that heat spikes can be generated. The heat spikes come from the PI’s as they are creating energy while hardening.
It is very important for technicians to apply the gel in thin layers and do more layers to build up the proper enhancement, instead of one thick layer. It is also important to note that thick layers allow less light to reach the bottom layers, resulting in service breakdown and undercured product.
Using the proper photo initiators and the correct amount for a UV or LED gel are two of the most difficult tasks facing NSI scientists who formulate these types of products. Three of the most important factors in UV and LED curing are:
· A proper balance between the photo initiators and nail lamp.
· The intensity and the spectrum of available UV or LED light.
· The duration of the light exposure.
Oligomer – The backbone of gel chemistry is the urethane acrylate oligomer. It’s a short, pre-formed chain of individual monomers. In light-cured materials, urethane acrylate oligomers offer superior toughness and scratch resistance. They are the base for all gel and play a crucial role in determining the gel’s working properties, including how they are removed.
Gel Powder – In plain terms, it is acrylic powder used with a resin based dipping system. Some manufacturers advertise dip systems in this way to imply to customers it is a “healthy” alternative to gel polish.
UV/LED Gels – An oligomer-based nail product that requires UV/LED energy to cure. UV gels give the technician unlimited working time prior to curing in a UV/LED lamp. They are tough and durable, so suitable for virtually any type of service, including natural nail overlay, tip and overlay, or sculpting on a form. They are solvent resistant, so they must be filed off for removal.
Hard Gels – This is another name that describes a traditional gel enhancement that is solvent resistant. “Hard” may refer to the gel being non-porous and needing to be filed off for removal. Hard gels are sculpting gels and they can come in many different viscosities (meaning thicknesses). Hard gels cannot be soaked off, they must be filed off to remove.
Soft Gels or Removable Gels – These gels are an easy to remove alternative to traditional hard gels. Removable gels maintain many of the same characteristics of traditional hard gels, with the addition that they can be soaked off in Acetone to remove. Don’t let the word “removable” or “soft” give you the impression that they are not strong – Some removable gels are strong enough to use for sculpting enhancements.
Gel Polish – This term refers to a system of thin, light weight light-cured gels that are a longer lasting alternative to traditional air dry nail polish. Gel polish does add a slight layer of strength and protection to the natural nail but they cannot be used to sculpt with. Gel Polishes tend to last up to two weeks, and can be removed by soaking in Acetone. Gel Polish is traditionally packaged in a nail polish bottle that is completely opaque due to it’s light curability.
Gel Colour – Defined as a heavily-pigmented pure gel (without the presence of solvents) used for nail art or to cover the entire nail enhancement with colour. They can be used over either traditional acrylic or gel enhancements. Colour gels are traditionally packaged in a pot, rather than a polish bottle. This can be a distinguishing factor from a close relative: gel polish.
A nail tech’s guide to common acrylic system terms & technology.
With the popularity of acrylic nails and acrylic products available on the market today, it’s important to know exactly what you are buying. As the demand for nail enhancements grow in salons today, they have moved from just a salon service, to a hot commodity. Acrylic nail systems have existed for years, and helped kickstart the industry, thus really put nail enhancements on the map.
Nail enhancements have been used since the mid to late 1950s when the first experiments used dental products to form an artificial nail. Of course, in the beginning, acrylic nails weren’t so wonderful, as they are today.
IN FACT: NSI and specifically the Slack family, have been proven pioneers in product innovation and techniques. NSI has been at the forefront of creating innovative professional only enhancement products. Our first product branded was Choice Liquid & Powder System.
A popular myth is that all acrylic products are alike. Some manufacturers of less expensive items promote their acrylic products as the same as the more expensive brands. Nothing could be further from the truth.
Inexpensive products use basic formulas with a minimal amount of specialized ingredients. Special additives, such as flow modifiers, catalysts, and wetting agents increase performance and workability. They also can increase cost dramatically.
Online 3rd party retailers such as Amazon, Ebay and Alibaba are home to where a lot of these off brand products are sold and distributed. But don’t be fooled. There are also risks included in buying name brand products from these sites. A number of acrylic manufacturers, including NSI, discourage purchasing their products from these sites because of risk of product contamination, 2nd hand product, and even counterfeit products. A good practice for buying any nail product is to go to an authorized distributor or purchasing directly from the manufacturer.
Monomer: The Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines monomer as “a simple chemical compound that can be polymerized.” In the nail industry, it is the term for nail liquid used when creating acrylic nails. There are different types of monomers and the most commonly used are EMA-based (ethyl methacrylate) monomers.
STAY AWAY FROM MMA NAIL LIQUID
The use of Methyl Methacrylate (MMA) (monomer un-polymerized liquid) is prohibited in the nail industry because it results in hard, polymerized solid plastic, which is considered too hard for nail systems. MMA monomer has been restricted for use in the nail industry since the mid 1970s. Although banned, this product is still being used in some non-standard salons because of its cost being significantly less than that of EMA-based monomers.
Polymer: The Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines polymer as “a chemical compound formed by union of small molecules and usually consisting of repeating structural units”. In the nail industry, this term is used for nail powder.
Light-Cured Acrylic: Similar to traditional acrylic nails, this two part system consists of nail liquid (monomer) with nail powder (polymer). The difference being that this product cures with a UV lamp. The set-up time for light-cured acrylic is much slower than traditional acrylic and the products can be quite difficult to work with.
Odor-Free Acrylic: This type of liquid evaporates very slowly, creating little vapor (hence, undetectable odor). It can be difficult to work with, and requires a dry mix ratio. Because Odor-Free liquids set up very slow, a specific technique to application is required. NSI Spa Nail Liquid is a great odor-free monomer that creates beautiful nail enhancements when used with the NSI acrylic nail powders.
HEMA-Free (Sensitive) Acrylic: Hydroxy Ethyl Methacrylate (HEMA) is added to many monomers to promote adhesion of the enhancement to the natural nail. Most of the allergic reactions are caused by the HEMA in nail enhancement products. Although HEMA is mostly found in monomer, gels do contain small amounts of HEMA as well. NSI does have a HEMA-Free nail liquid, Universal Nail Liquid, for clients that experience sensitivity issues.
Primerless Acrylic: With Primerless nail liquids, you can eliminate the use of a nail primer and still create strong, beautiful acrylic nails. A medium wet mix ratio is required. The consistency will be a creamier texture because of added HEMA, and will result in a slower cure time for great for art and adhesion. Secrets Primerless Liquid works beautifully with any NSI acrylic powder to create beautiful enhancements and nail art.
Gels are better for the natural nails than acrylics.
This could not be further from the truth. Enhancement products do not damage nails, it is what nail technicians do in the application of enhancements, or clients improper home removal that damages the nail. It is the job of a professional nail technician to maintain the health of the clients’ nails.
Acrylic nail enhancements are stronger than gels.
No. This is not true! With any enhancement system, it is important to have a well balanced nail enhancement, this can be achieved with both acrylic nails and with gel nails, they are both tough.
I can use any company’s monomer with any polymer I buy.
This is not true. High quality acrylic systems are sold as just that, a system. These products have been formulated so that they all work together properly, and won’t always work when mixed with other product. When you begin to mix different products from different manufacturers you can end up with faster enhancement breakdown, improper mix ratios and many more potential problems.
Here at NSI, we have our own lab and scientists that work endlessly to produce high quality products that are then tested by nail techs around the world. NSI is a product driven company that will always continue to produce high quality products for their consumers around the world.
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